Nobu
The London venue continues to thrive however; it was packed out on Sunday night when our party of six arrived for a double 40th birthday celebration.
The tennis champion Boris Becker probably has mixed feelings about the service at Nobu London. After a drunken argument with his wife in the restaurant he allegedly accepted an offer of fellatio from a waitress in a broom cupboard. Unfortunately the waitress then (also allegedly) successfully inseminated herself and won a $5m paternity suit. Some tip, but then again, some service...
Thanks to our media friends we found ourselves seated next to the best table in the house and I watched with interest as a party was escorted to it. They seemed a nondescript group, except for a blond woman who was surrounded by an almost visible aura of celebrity. It's the first time I have seen this effect up close. The attention of nearby journalists and restaurant staff make it seem like the person in question is followed by their own personal spotlight. How horrible to have to live like that - with everyone thinking, "I've seen that dress before" - "She looks too thin" - "Who is that dorky guy she is with?". I almost felt sympathy for her. But it was Nicky Hilton apparently - sister to the appalling Paris.
During our meal I had a conversation the like of which could only happen in London.
Her: "So you know that hotel in Dubai - the Burj Al-Arab? - have you been there? no? we went for a meal in their underwater restaurant - had to get a submarine taxi - and Roger Federer was sitting at the next table - he's a lovely guy, really sweet you know, so modest and unassuming..."
Me: "I'm sorry, but did you just say that you travelled to that restaurant in a submarine?"
Her: "Yes, it's underwater you see."
Me: "Yes of course."
Nobu food is fabulous. Whatever you do, you must try the black cod. Thankfully that is included in the £70/head tasting menu which is substantial, varied and excellent value. You won't find sea-urchin roe, japanese peaches or sea-bass sashimi anywhere in Nottingham any time soon. The service was of the super-efficient and invisbly discreet kind.
I was braced for a £200/head horrorshow but the bill came in at an extravagant but manageable £125/head. You're only 40 once after all. Nobu is withour doubt the best Japanese restaurant I have ever been to.

