Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons

Le Manoir - Nibbles


Expectations were naturally stratospheric prior to our visit to Le Manoir – it’s supposed to be one of the top 2 or 3 restaurants in the country after all. But, inevitably perhaps, those expectations were not fully realised.

It’s a beautiful place - one of those gorgeous, honey-coloured 17th century manor houses. You could probably spend half a day just looking around the gardens, though it rained continuously throughout our stay. The staff were abundant and unfailingly charming and gracious – rushing out to meet us with umbrellas.

There was plenty of glamour. Zoe Wanamaker (Harry Potter’s flying instructor) was there. A group of city bankers caused something of a stir by arriving and departing by helicopter.

The only thing in fact that was not absolutely perfect was the actual food. Granted, my starter (a parfait of fois-gras) was stunning, every element seeming to be the very definition of its own particular flavour. Particularly memorable were the tiny, sweet, silverskin onions which had been pickled in intense tarragon vinegar.

My main course (leg of suckling pig) was disappointing – the meat bland and somewhat greasy. It was also far from satisfying in its proportions – very small pieces of leg of suckling pig would have been a fairer description.

The desserts, which included a special passion fruit birthday cake, were masterly though, as good as anything I have tasted.

Lunch at Le Manoir is £47/head unless you go for the degustation menu which comes in at an emotional £110/head. We went for the former, but with celebratory champagne pushed the final bill to around £86/head. Big money for lunch in my book but worth it for the whole experience I think. It's one of those places that you just have to go to once in you life.

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