Harts
Harts on a Saturday night - packed as usual and deservedly so. Harts (until I re-test Merchant's and Restaurant Sat Bains) is probably the best restaurant in Nottingham. Tim Hart is the man behind the exquisite Hambleton Hall in Rutland and Harts was a worthy successor, transforming the culinary landscape of Nottingham almost overnight and bringing world-class food to the city for the first time. They released a pent-up demand which still sees the restaurant fully booked most weekends and even during the week.
Our party selected the pan fried squid and a warm salad of wood pigeon to start. The squid is an old favourite - so succulent and delicate that I once had it for dessert. How do they do that with squid? So often in lesser restaurants you end up with a plate of un-rolled condoms.
The wood pigeon was dark and tender, perfectly complemented with the pinenut vinaigrette and a suprising remoulade (a sauce with mayonnaise) of celeriac. Unimprovable, really and healthy portions as well.
We cheapskates opted for the least expensive wine on the list, a £15 Pinot Noir because we had just been to see Sideways. Harts really know how to look after their wine and you can't go wrong, whatever you choose.
The main courses, Sea bass, Loin of Venison and Hare Wellington were excellent, if incredibly rich. The venison is served pink, in a sweet juniper sauce - the perfect seasonal accompaniment to a cold winter's day. I didn't try the others but by all accounts they were perfectly cooked.
The service seemed to have lost some of it's polish and verged on the over-attentive. We now have a new policy of nipping this in the bud early on in the meal by demanding the right to pour our own wine and water and at Harts they are happy to leave you in peace.
In stark contrast to La Toque, we were so stuffed after our main course that a dessert was out of the question and we staggered home for coffees.
Total bill has £106 for the three of us.
Our party selected the pan fried squid and a warm salad of wood pigeon to start. The squid is an old favourite - so succulent and delicate that I once had it for dessert. How do they do that with squid? So often in lesser restaurants you end up with a plate of un-rolled condoms.
The wood pigeon was dark and tender, perfectly complemented with the pinenut vinaigrette and a suprising remoulade (a sauce with mayonnaise) of celeriac. Unimprovable, really and healthy portions as well.
We cheapskates opted for the least expensive wine on the list, a £15 Pinot Noir because we had just been to see Sideways. Harts really know how to look after their wine and you can't go wrong, whatever you choose.
The main courses, Sea bass, Loin of Venison and Hare Wellington were excellent, if incredibly rich. The venison is served pink, in a sweet juniper sauce - the perfect seasonal accompaniment to a cold winter's day. I didn't try the others but by all accounts they were perfectly cooked.
The service seemed to have lost some of it's polish and verged on the over-attentive. We now have a new policy of nipping this in the bud early on in the meal by demanding the right to pour our own wine and water and at Harts they are happy to leave you in peace.
In stark contrast to La Toque, we were so stuffed after our main course that a dessert was out of the question and we staggered home for coffees.
Total bill has £106 for the three of us.
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